While some bloggers might make it seem that visiting Syria is as safe as going on a weekend trip to Geneva, that’s simply not the case. As a foreigner living in Aleppo, who speaks Arabic and is married to a Syrian, I can tell you that your safety in this country is very contextual. When you book a tour with us to Syria, you don’t need to think about this much – your safety is our responsibility, and we know what we’re doing. However, we realise that booking a tour is not for some. While I don’t entirely discourage independent travel in Syria, I do think that one must do so with caution. In certain parts of the country, the situation remains unstable, and one must always keep in mind political and cultural sensitivities. In this blog, I’ll do my best to explain what you can do to make sure you’re safe when you travel solo in Syria. Listen to this advice, don’t be naïve.
Violence and political events
As you probably already know, Syria is prone to a lot of major political events, sometimes happening at lightning speed. Nobody in Syria expected Assad to fall in 2024, much less thought it would happen in 11 days…
Following the news and educating yourself about political events and sensitivities is important, so that you don’t go to the wrong place at the wrong time. A good way to follow updates is this website: syria.liveuamap.com. While not always 100% accurate, this website shows you updates regarding violent events in the country, as well as significant political statements and actions. Study the map, study the events. Make sure you have a good idea about what is happening in the country, where, and to who. If in doubt about visiting a certain place, the best thing to do is to ask trusted locals who are from that area. Don’t ask someone from Damascus about the situation in Afrin – they probably have no idea at best, and they may even have false positive/negative stereotypes due to their sect, social class or political opinions. That leads me on to the next point.
Everyone in Syria has there political biases – don’t get involved.
Okay, it’s not everyone. However, it unfortunately remains the case that opinions of Syrian people can be very divided. A Kurd from Qamishli might tell you Damascus is dangerous because a “terrorist government is in charge” while a Sunni Muslim from Damascus might tell you that Qamishli is dangerous because the “PKK is in charge there”. Just because the person they don’t like controls that area, doesn’t mean that it’s dangerous to go there as a foreigner. What can upset people, however, is if you pick a side, or if you appear to pick a side. If you happen to bump into the Minister of Interior and take a selfie with him, this might not go down well in areas that oppose the government. If you understand the country well, it might be possible for you to navigate this complex climate of opinions in a safe way. But if you don’t (and as a foreign visitor then I assume you don’t) then it’s better to stay out of anything that might be deemed politically sensitive. And keep in mind that anything in Syria can be deemed sensitive – probably just be writing this article I’ve pissed some people off (because I didn’t explicitly say that the neighbourhood/province that they love/hate is safe/dangerous). You’re always stepping on eggshells.
Understand what the dangers are
Going to each part of Syria poses a different set of risks, depending on who you are and how you travel there. These are things that we, as a travel company, are aware of, but a foreign visitor probably won’t be. Try to educate yourself about the local realities and dangers before you go somewhere in Syria, to ensure that you’re safe. I’ll give you a list of examples, but keep in mind this list is not exhaustive.
Afrin – mostly safe these days but many of the areas around historical sites (such as Kharab Shams) haven’t been cleared of landmines. There is tension between the local Kurdish population and units of the SNA (Syrian National Army) who is accused of ethnic cleansing the region in recent years, but most people say it’s getting better.
Damascus – the capital city is in general very safe. But still, I wouldn’t recommend attending large gatherings, especially those of religious minorities, unless you’re sure that there will be a good security presence. Or, keep your attendance short.
Suweida – this Druze-majority province isn’t controlled by the government but rather Hikmat Al Hijri’s national guard. While there is little violence there now, there has been in the past, and if clashes were to happen with government forces again, there isn’t anywhere to evacuate. Not recommended to go there now for this reason.
Aleppo – most areas of touristic interest are very safe. But, if you’d like to venture into some of the poorer areas, especially as a female, cover up. There are many cases of harassment.
Qamishli – controlled by the SDF, and clashes are going on their now. If things were to calm down, it’s be in a similar situation to Suweida EXCEPT that there is a route out – a border crossing with Iraqi Kurdistan. Hence, it’s not as risky.
Syrian Coastal Cities (Latakia, Tartous etc.) – you should take particular care in Alawite majority areas, where there is tension. Things are quite peaceful now but they weren’t last year. If protests kick off, leave immediately.
Idlib – it’s very conservative so cover all your skin and maybe even your hair if you’re a female. It’s probably best not to go there if you are Chinese, as there are Uyghur militants there, who hold a particular grudge against Chinese people.
Deir Ezzour – probably not the best time to go, as there was recently a prison break in Shaddadi area, where many prisoners were ex-ISIS. It’s likely that some of them have taken refuge in rural areas of Deir Ezzour. Otherwise, it’s a very tribal, conservative province.
Petty crime
In general, Syria is safe when it comes to petty crime. You’re more likely to get robbed in London then you are in most areas of Syria. However, that doesn’t mean that it doesn’t happen. Don’t walk in dark alleyways at night in neighbourhoods that you’re not familiar with. Some areas are perfectly safe in the day, but not at night. But in general, if you have experience travelling, then this isn’t really something you need to worry about. The above points are more important.