As I write this, it’s the 24th of January 2026. This matters, as the situation is changing every day. Just two weeks ago, the Kurdish-dominated Syrian Democratic Forces (SDF) were in control of large parts of Syria. Now, they’ve lost some of their main strongholds, namely Sheikh Maqsoud and Raqqa, and the city of Kobane is surrounded on all sides. The sheer speed that they lost territory to Damascus came as a shock to many, myself included. It seems as though the SDF’s Arab tribal components have mostly turned on them, and not much remains of the SDF except for the Kurdish forces (YPG and YPJ for example). Check the map below for an idea of how much of Syria Damascus now controls. Are the Kurds of Syria now safe, or are they threatened? That’s not quite clear.
I’m a foreigner living in Aleppo, and I work in tourism in Syria. My Syrian wife and I have been taking groups to Syria’s North East, as well as all other corners of the country. I write this blog-post primarily as an update on traveling to Syria, but also as someone who’s on the ground and has got friends all accross the country. I’ve also been interested in the Kurds of Syria, and have travelled to many of their regions.
What do the recent events mean for locals? Well, most Arabs in Raqqa and Deir Ezzour appear to be happy about the end of SDF rule. However, I do have concerns about abuses against Kurdish groups, particularly in Kobane, which is surrounded. During times of conflict, human rights violations against minorities have a precedent with the new armed forces, especially in the coastal regions and Suweida. However, in recent battles with the SDF, we are seeing less proof of such violations taking place (which doesn’t mean they aren’t happening) and Syrian government officials have been very vocal about supporting Kurdish cultural and linguistic rights. Furthermore, in Sheikh Maqsoud, safe zones for civilians to evacuate were implemented, something we didn’t see on the coast or Suweida. Perhaps a deal will yet be made for Kurdish majority areas so that they have their own local police force for instance – this is unclear. I think full autonomy like the Kurdistan region of Iraq is unlikely, especially after the events of the last couple of weeks.
Is it safe to travel to Syria now?
In most areas of Syria, the security situation remains unchanged. In Aleppo, I believe it’s even safer than before, as there is no more risk of conflict with Sheikh Masqoud or Deir Hafir. In general, though, Syria doesn’t have a good tourist infrastructure and few people speak English. Hence, to make sure you’re safe in Syria, it’s better to book a tour. However, there are some areas of Syria which you either can’t visit, or should avoid for your safety. These areas are:
- Suweida
- Western Daraa province, areas close to the Golan Heights
- Kobane, Hasakah and Qamishli (controlled by the SDF. Situation is changing fast, could be safe or not within the next week!)
- Rural Deir Ezzour (especially eastern bank of the Euphrates)
- Raqqa (it’s only recently under the control of the government, could take a while to stabilise)